Vroom!
Nestled in the middle of a bunch of farmland and forest just 15 minutes from my house lies a very interesting bit of tarmac, namely a racetrack. Atlantic Motorsport Park(AMP), to be exact. Most of the time this track is dedicated to motorcycle riding and racing which doesn't particularly interest me. For a few weekends of the season, however, the track gets very interesting when it becomes home to Performance Driving School. When this happens the track turns into a car show better than most other car shows. It's a car show where you'll find assorted Porsche and BMW sports cars by the dozens as well as a random smattering of other interesting cars from the Subaru Sti and hot Audis to performance Volvos and Lexuses (Lexii?)
The reason this is a car show better than most others is that the cars are NOT polished to perfection and kept behind velvet ropes. The cars are fetteled and tuned and the owners are learning how to push them to, and sometimes beyond, their limits. It's truly refreshing to see performance cars having the balls driven off of them in a nice controlled environment.
AMP has a website here: http://www.atlanticmotorsportpark.com/ that you can check out for their schedule and other relevant informations.
Here is a video I cut together from bits taken back in august on my super cheapo chinese micro video camera (hence the crap quality):
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Saturday, October 9, 2010
Ship ahoy!
I've always been fascinated with boats. They're big and they're heavy and they float anyway. They also aren't confined to roads like cars. Overall, pretty neat things. This fascination, of course, crosses over to my R/C hobby as well. So much so that I've had a couple R/C boats over the years. Well last year I started getting the itch for an R/C boat again. This time I thought I'd go bigger, louder, and home-built.
The boat I'm trying to build is my homage to the Zippkits EasyVee deep vee wooden boat kit. Smart people among you who want to build one of these things... just buy the kit. Doing it really from scratch like I am is stupid and time-intensive. The EasyVee boat is a wooden construction thing about 46 inches long and intended for 2stroke weedeater-sized engine power. The people building these boats "correctly" also use the "correct" R/C-specific engines in them... but those cost money so my intent is to use a real weedeater engine and invent the driveline parts for it. That will take a long time but will save me hundreds of dollars if it works.
For once I had the foresight to get a camera set up BEFORE building the whole project. I have smooshed the pictures into a video so you can really see the progress of the boat from sheets of plywood to a fully formed and resin-sealed hull. That was the easy part. Now I've got some real inventing to do to make her seaworthy. Someday I'll have another update for you. Here is the first video:
The boat I'm trying to build is my homage to the Zippkits EasyVee deep vee wooden boat kit. Smart people among you who want to build one of these things... just buy the kit. Doing it really from scratch like I am is stupid and time-intensive. The EasyVee boat is a wooden construction thing about 46 inches long and intended for 2stroke weedeater-sized engine power. The people building these boats "correctly" also use the "correct" R/C-specific engines in them... but those cost money so my intent is to use a real weedeater engine and invent the driveline parts for it. That will take a long time but will save me hundreds of dollars if it works.
For once I had the foresight to get a camera set up BEFORE building the whole project. I have smooshed the pictures into a video so you can really see the progress of the boat from sheets of plywood to a fully formed and resin-sealed hull. That was the easy part. Now I've got some real inventing to do to make her seaworthy. Someday I'll have another update for you. Here is the first video:
Sunday, September 12, 2010
A Penetrating Quandry:
As your friendly neighborhood IT Guy I often find myself in charge of doing away with old hard drives. These are drives that might be bad or that are too old and small to use anymore or what have you. Since your hard drive contains traces of everything you do (even after some software methods of erasing them) it makes sense to me to physically damage drives before recycling them. This helps to ensure no prying eyes go snooping around your data for juicy identity-thefty tidbits.
If you are really very concerned about your data I suggest you software-wipe your drive first with something like Boot&Nuke or any of dozens of similar drive formatting jobbies BEFORE physically trashing the thing for disposal... Well I guess you could try doing that after destroying the drive if you really wanted to. Let me know how that works out for you.
Anyway, to accomplish this sort of mindless physical destruction of computer hardware in a safe and tidy way I decided I would need to create a device. Such a device basically appeared to me in a daydream one day and I got to work as soon as time permitted. The device which may or may not be named The Hard Drive Penetrator is constructed out of the following basic ingredients:
- half of a broken punch (sharpened)
- a hydraulic bottle jack (about $9 on sale at Princess Auto)
- some old steel bed frame rails (pick these up for free at roadside on recycling day or cleanup day.
- a couple hours of cutting and welding
In another stroke of workshop luck I'm fairly pleased with the way my drive killer turned out. It's quiet, clean, easy to use, and does a real number on a hard drive. For your info-tainment please enjoy my video about this thing:
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Happy Whacking Day!
Howdy,
Here's the deal: I busted the flywheel key off in my weedwhacker. Not sure how, but I did. I'll admit it. For those of you not in the know of small engines the flywheel key is what keeps all the inner gubbins synergizing correctly. Without the key the engine will do undesirable things such as: not start, remove skin from your knuckles, and create anger.
This leads to yet another DIY repair by the workshop nutjob himself, me. Naturally the weedwhacker in question was dredged from the garbage and repaired initially... and the spare parts engine was also garbage-picked so this was a no-cost endeavor. No-cost is the best cost.
I'm not going to walk you all through the repair in detail because I suspect most of you don't care and just read my blog by mistake or to humour me. The crux of it is basically that you remove the driveshaft side of the plastic housings to expose the flywheel and then swap it out. This requires the removal of roughly 400 screws for which I definitely lost the proper driver bit some time ago. In the included video I'll show some of the finer points of the swap out as well as say stupid things and make unnecessarily loud noises. Let's go!
Here's the deal: I busted the flywheel key off in my weedwhacker. Not sure how, but I did. I'll admit it. For those of you not in the know of small engines the flywheel key is what keeps all the inner gubbins synergizing correctly. Without the key the engine will do undesirable things such as: not start, remove skin from your knuckles, and create anger.
This leads to yet another DIY repair by the workshop nutjob himself, me. Naturally the weedwhacker in question was dredged from the garbage and repaired initially... and the spare parts engine was also garbage-picked so this was a no-cost endeavor. No-cost is the best cost.
I'm not going to walk you all through the repair in detail because I suspect most of you don't care and just read my blog by mistake or to humour me. The crux of it is basically that you remove the driveshaft side of the plastic housings to expose the flywheel and then swap it out. This requires the removal of roughly 400 screws for which I definitely lost the proper driver bit some time ago. In the included video I'll show some of the finer points of the swap out as well as say stupid things and make unnecessarily loud noises. Let's go!
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Garbage Air: how sweet the smell!
Hey,
I see a lot of useful stuff getting thrown out. Maybe it isn't useful to the original owner anymore but I find use in some of this stuff. One such happenstance occurred the day I found an 8gal. sized air compressor tank with a busted wheel and missing compressor. The tank itself was solid and undamaged (important for a pressure vessel) so I took it home hoping to make a portable air tank out of it one day. Months passed... no progress. Such is life. Then I found a second smaller discarded compressor thing that had some more interesting parts on it so I took that home as well and the brain-gears started turning.
I had to drop about $3 at the hardware store for threaded pipe fittings and $5 for some tacticool looking flat OD green spraypaint so I did end up spending a little money on the project but it's still pretty low budget.
Long story still long I sanded and painted the tank, pulled the (busted)wheels off it and added the 4 rubber feet off the smaller tank. Then I cut and welded the handle at a more jaunty angle(towards the centre of gravity) to aid in balancing the tank by the handle. I used some teflon thread tape, my hardware store threaded pipe bits, and my straight-out-of-the trash gauges and bits to plug the holes in the tank and add... well... functionality.
I'm pleased with the result. I now have enough portable air to do a little air-nailing, inflate some stuff, even air-out a computer fan or something without busting my hump trying to drag my big compressor around.
I have included a video for my own enjoyment... but you're welcome to have a look as well:
I see a lot of useful stuff getting thrown out. Maybe it isn't useful to the original owner anymore but I find use in some of this stuff. One such happenstance occurred the day I found an 8gal. sized air compressor tank with a busted wheel and missing compressor. The tank itself was solid and undamaged (important for a pressure vessel) so I took it home hoping to make a portable air tank out of it one day. Months passed... no progress. Such is life. Then I found a second smaller discarded compressor thing that had some more interesting parts on it so I took that home as well and the brain-gears started turning.
I had to drop about $3 at the hardware store for threaded pipe fittings and $5 for some tacticool looking flat OD green spraypaint so I did end up spending a little money on the project but it's still pretty low budget.
Long story still long I sanded and painted the tank, pulled the (busted)wheels off it and added the 4 rubber feet off the smaller tank. Then I cut and welded the handle at a more jaunty angle(towards the centre of gravity) to aid in balancing the tank by the handle. I used some teflon thread tape, my hardware store threaded pipe bits, and my straight-out-of-the trash gauges and bits to plug the holes in the tank and add... well... functionality.
I'm pleased with the result. I now have enough portable air to do a little air-nailing, inflate some stuff, even air-out a computer fan or something without busting my hump trying to drag my big compressor around.
I have included a video for my own enjoyment... but you're welcome to have a look as well:
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Beer: not just for breakfast anymore!
Hey,
I've got a confession to make. I like beer. I like it a lot. I'm not much of a drunkard, however, because I like the tastes and textures of beer more than the alcoholic content. I'd rather nurse a good beer or two over an evening than pound back watery pissbeers one after another all night. For whatever reasons I've settled on liking dark beers and have taken to comparing them mentally for ages. Just recently I've decided I should review them out loud just in case anyone else wonders what I think the beer is like. This more public approach to beer reviewing is made simple with this new fangled invention called "the internet". I don't know if this internet thing is going to catch on or not but I rather like it.
Annnnnnnnnyway, the beer in question this time around is Alexander Keith's Dark Ale. As far back as I can recall this is Keith's first foray into dark beers. I think it's great that these big breweries like Keith's and Rickards are getting into the dark beer scene. That should help drive competition in that segment and perhaps lower prices or bring more products to market. All I know is that I want to try them out and I'll let you know what I think of them as I do.
I've decided to take a sort of disgruntled/violent IT Guy approach to the beer video making. Mostly because I get a kick out of it. I hope you do as well. If you haven't already seen it, you should check out my Rickards Dark review in my YouTube videos. Without further futzing about here's the Keith's Dark video:
I've got a confession to make. I like beer. I like it a lot. I'm not much of a drunkard, however, because I like the tastes and textures of beer more than the alcoholic content. I'd rather nurse a good beer or two over an evening than pound back watery pissbeers one after another all night. For whatever reasons I've settled on liking dark beers and have taken to comparing them mentally for ages. Just recently I've decided I should review them out loud just in case anyone else wonders what I think the beer is like. This more public approach to beer reviewing is made simple with this new fangled invention called "the internet". I don't know if this internet thing is going to catch on or not but I rather like it.
Annnnnnnnnyway, the beer in question this time around is Alexander Keith's Dark Ale. As far back as I can recall this is Keith's first foray into dark beers. I think it's great that these big breweries like Keith's and Rickards are getting into the dark beer scene. That should help drive competition in that segment and perhaps lower prices or bring more products to market. All I know is that I want to try them out and I'll let you know what I think of them as I do.I've decided to take a sort of disgruntled/violent IT Guy approach to the beer video making. Mostly because I get a kick out of it. I hope you do as well. If you haven't already seen it, you should check out my Rickards Dark review in my YouTube videos. Without further futzing about here's the Keith's Dark video:
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Zapping a cordless drill battery into submission!
First and foremost, a disclaimer: NOBODY DO THIS. There that should cover that.
Okay, Here's the backstory: My cordless drill was great for a few years till the batteries tanked out and it turned into an ugly paperweight. After spending my usual too much time on the internet reading about such things I decided I'd juice the crap out of my battery packs with my mig welder to see if that helped.
Initially I did one pack months ago and was so pleased with the result that I saved the other pack to share the experience with you fine folks of the intertubes. You should feel honoured. Or at least less offended than I usually make you.
According to my limited understanding of how the guts of batteries work here is why nicad cells stop working: think of the cell as a bucket of chemical juices with two chunks of metal suspended in it (these connect to the positive and negative terminals). The chemical juices react with the metal chunks and give off magic... or electricity or something. The reason I think they crap out sometimes is because after a lot of this chemical reaction happening a buildup of some byproduct bridges the gap between the metal bits and shorts the sucker out.
Now... that being probably mostly kinda true, here's why the welder helps: My welder on high outputs a little over 30v DC but massive amperage or current. This huge wallop of current blows apart those bridges of crap built up between the internal battery parts and allows the normal chemical reaction to resume in a more appropriate manner. I'm sure there are more qualified people to give proper explanations of this but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
After seeing a few writings about how to do this trick it seemed like a handful of short, evenly paced zaps was the agreed on methodology so as you'll see in the video I zap the battery in that manner. I arbitrarily decided to zap it 10 or 12 times because that "seemed about right".
Long term testing: As I mentioned before I repaired my other drill pack months ago and it works really well. Not as good as brand new, no, but very usable and much better than doling out the green for new stuff. So that's your lesson in DIY for today.
And now for the sure-to-be award-winning video of the battery zapping event:
Okay, Here's the backstory: My cordless drill was great for a few years till the batteries tanked out and it turned into an ugly paperweight. After spending my usual too much time on the internet reading about such things I decided I'd juice the crap out of my battery packs with my mig welder to see if that helped.
Initially I did one pack months ago and was so pleased with the result that I saved the other pack to share the experience with you fine folks of the intertubes. You should feel honoured. Or at least less offended than I usually make you.
According to my limited understanding of how the guts of batteries work here is why nicad cells stop working: think of the cell as a bucket of chemical juices with two chunks of metal suspended in it (these connect to the positive and negative terminals). The chemical juices react with the metal chunks and give off magic... or electricity or something. The reason I think they crap out sometimes is because after a lot of this chemical reaction happening a buildup of some byproduct bridges the gap between the metal bits and shorts the sucker out.
Now... that being probably mostly kinda true, here's why the welder helps: My welder on high outputs a little over 30v DC but massive amperage or current. This huge wallop of current blows apart those bridges of crap built up between the internal battery parts and allows the normal chemical reaction to resume in a more appropriate manner. I'm sure there are more qualified people to give proper explanations of this but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.
After seeing a few writings about how to do this trick it seemed like a handful of short, evenly paced zaps was the agreed on methodology so as you'll see in the video I zap the battery in that manner. I arbitrarily decided to zap it 10 or 12 times because that "seemed about right".
Long term testing: As I mentioned before I repaired my other drill pack months ago and it works really well. Not as good as brand new, no, but very usable and much better than doling out the green for new stuff. So that's your lesson in DIY for today.
And now for the sure-to-be award-winning video of the battery zapping event:
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